================================================================================ 07. REFERENCES ================================================================================ Full bibliography, deduplicated, with corrections applied per the hallucination-check verification (see Methodological note in 00_overview_and_toc.txt). Format: Author(s). Title. Journal. Year;Vol(Issue):pages. PMID: | DOI: | PMC: ================================================================================ A. BEARD HAIR BIOLOGY AND MECHANICAL CARE (from chapter 01, 06) ================================================================================ 1. Randall VA, Thornton MJ, Messenger AG. Cultured dermal papilla cells from androgen-dependent human hair follicles (e.g. beard) contain more androgen receptors than those from non-balding areas of scalp. J Endocrinol. 1992;133(1):141-7. PMID: 1517703. DOI: 10.1677/joe.0.1330141. 2. Hibberts NA, Messenger AG, Randall VA. Dermal papilla cells derived from beard hair follicles secrete more stem cell factor (SCF) in culture than scalp cells or dermal fibroblasts. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 1996;222(2):401-5. PMID: 8670217. DOI: 10.1006/bbrc.1996.0756. 3. Hutchinson PE, Thompson JR. The cross-sectional size and shape of human terminal scalp hair. Br J Dermatol. 1997;136(2):159-65. PMID: 9068724. 4. Thornton MJ, Hamada K, Messenger AG, Randall VA. Androgen- dependent beard dermal papilla cells secrete autocrine growth factor(s) in response to testosterone unlike scalp cells. J Invest Dermatol. 1998;111(5):727-32. PMID: 9804329. DOI: 10.1046/j.1523-1747.1998.00396.x. 5. Randall VA, Hibberts NA, Thornton MJ, et al. The hair follicle: a paradoxical androgen target organ. Horm Res. 2000;54(5-6):243-50. PMID: 11595812. DOI: 10.1159/000053266. 6. Langbein L, Rogers MA, Winter H, Praetzel S, Schweizer J. The catalog of human hair keratins. II. Expression of the six type II members in the hair follicle and the combined catalog of human type I and II keratins. J Biol Chem. 2001;276(37):35123-32. PMID: 11445569. DOI: 10.1074/jbc.M103305200. 7. Lee YJ, Rice RH, Lee YM. Proteome analysis of human hair shaft: from protein identification to posttranslational modification. Mol Cell Proteomics. 2006;5(5):789-800. PMID: 16446289. DOI: 10.1074/mcp.M500278-MCP200. 8. Rutberg SE, Kolpak ML, Gourley JA, Tan G, Henry JP, Shander D. Differences in expression of specific biomarkers distinguish human beard from scalp dermal papilla cells. J Invest Dermatol. 2006;126(12):2583-95. PMID: 16810298. DOI: 10.1038/sj.jid.5700454. 9. Robbins C. Hair breakage during combing. I. Pathways of breakage. J Cosmet Sci. 2006;57(3):233-43. PMID: 16832574. 10. Robbins C. Hair breakage during combing. II. Impact loading and hair breakage. J Cosmet Sci. 2006;57(3):245-57. PMID: 16832575. 11. Robbins C, Kamath Y. Hair breakage during combing. IV. Brushing and combing hair. J Cosmet Sci. 2007;58(6):629-36. PMID: 18305876. 12. Randall VA. Androgens and hair growth. Dermatol Ther. 2008;21(5):314-28. PMID: 18844710. DOI: 10.1111/j.1529-8019.2008.00214.x. 13. Picardo M, Ottaviani M, Camera E, Mastrofrancesco A. Sebaceous gland lipids. Dermatoendocrinol. 2009;1(2):68-71. PMCID: PMC2835893. 14. Draelos ZD. Essentials of hair care often neglected: hair cleansing. Int J Trichology. 2010;2(1):24-9. PMID: 21188020. PMCID: PMC3002407. DOI: 10.4103/0974-7753.66909. 15. Langbein L, Yoshida H, Praetzel-Wunder S, Parry DAD, Schweizer J. The keratins of the human beard hair medulla: the riddle in the middle. J Invest Dermatol. 2010;130(1):55-73. PMID: 19587698. DOI: 10.1038/jid.2009.192. 16. Osorio F, Tosti A. Hair weathering, Part 1: hair structure and pathogenesis. Cosmet Dermatol. 2011;24:533-538. (Part 2: Clinical features, diagnosis, prevention and treatment. Cosmet Dermatol. 2011;24:555-559.) URL: https://cdn.mdedge.com/files/s3fs-public/Document/September-2017/024120555.pdf 17. Lee Y, Kim YD, Hyun HJ, Pi LQ, Jin X, Lee WS. Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer. Ann Dermatol. 2011;23(4):455-62. PMID: 22148012. PMCID: PMC3229938. DOI: 10.5021/ad.2011.23.4.455. 18. Madnani N, Khan K. Hair cosmetics. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2013;79(5):654-67. PMID: 23974582. DOI: 10.4103/0378-6323.116734. 19. Yang FC, Zhang Y, Rheinstadter MC. The structure of people's hair. PeerJ. 2014;2:e619. PMID: 25332846. PMCID: PMC4201279. DOI: 10.7717/peerj.619. 20. Dias MFRG. Hair cosmetics: an overview. Int J Trichology. 2015;7(1):2-15. PMID: 25878443. PMCID: PMC4387693. DOI: 10.4103/0974-7753.153450. 21. Alessandrini A, Piraccini BM. Essential of hair care cosmetics. Cosmetics. 2016;3(4):34. DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics3040034. URL: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/3/4/34 22. Adav SS, Subbaiah RS, Kerk SK, et al. Studies on the proteome of human hair -- identification of histones and deamidated keratins. Sci Rep. 2018;8:1599. PMID: 29371649. PMCID: PMC5785504. DOI: 10.1038/s41598-018-20041-9. 23. Miranda BH, Charlesworth MR, Tobin DJ, Sharpe DT, Randall VA. Androgens trigger different growth responses in genetically identical human hair follicles in organ culture that reflect their epigenetic diversity in life. FASEB J. 2018;32(2):795-806. PMID: 29046359. PMCID: PMC5928870. DOI: 10.1096/fj.201700260RR. 24. Trueb RM, Rezende HD, Dias MFRG. A comment on the science of hair aging. Int J Trichology. 2018;10(6):245-254. PMID: 30783331. PMCID: PMC6369639. DOI: 10.4103/ijt.ijt_56_18. 25. Dias MFRG, Loures AF, Ekelem C. Hair cosmetics for the hair loss patient. Indian J Plast Surg. 2021;54(4):507-513. PMID: 34984093. PMCID: PMC8719955. DOI: 10.1055/s-0041-1739241. 26. Punyani S, Tosti A, Hordinsky M, Yeomans D, Schwartz J. The impact of shampoo wash frequency on scalp and hair conditions. Skin Appendage Disord. 2021;7(3):183-193. PMID: 34055906. PMCID: PMC8138261. DOI: 10.1159/000512786. 27. Garg T, Meena A, Mendiratta V. Acquired trichorrhexis nodosa confined to the beard. Indian J Dermatol. 2025. PMCID: PMC12306863. 28. Burkhart CG, Burkhart CN. A clinical review of trichorrhexis nodosa. Open Dermatol J. 2025;19:e187437222373771. URL: https://opendermatologyjournal.com/VOLUME/19/ELOCATOR/e18743722373771 (Abstract accessed; full text not retrieved.) 29. Taylor D, Barton E, Duffy I, Enea-Casse R, Marty G, Teeling R, Santoprete R. The biomechanics of splitting hairs. Interface Focus. 2024;14(3):20230063. PMID: 39081627. PMCID: PMC11285785. DOI: 10.1098/rsfs.2023.0063. ================================================================================ B. SOFTENING INGREDIENTS (from chapter 02) ================================================================================ 30. Rele AS, Mohile RB. Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. J Cosmet Sci. 2003;54(2):175-192. PMID: 12715094. 31. Ruetsch SB, Kamath YK, Rele AS, Mohile RB. Secondary ion mass spectrometric investigation of penetration of coconut and mineral oils into human hair fibers: relevance to hair damage. J Cosmet Sci. 2001;52(3):169-184. PMID: 11413497. 32. Keis K, Persaud D, Kamath YK, Rele AS. Investigation of penetration abilities of various oils into human hair fibers. J Cosmet Sci. 2005;56(5):283-295. PMID: 16258695. 33. Gode V, Bhalla N, Shirhatti V, Mhaskar S, Kamath Y. Quantitative measurement of the penetration of coconut oil into human hair using radiolabeled coconut oil. J Cosmet Sci. 2012;63(1):27-31. PMID: 22487449. 34. Kim S, Ahn C. Determination of penetration and protection of fatty acids in bleached hair according to the fatty acid chain length and the application to understanding the protective effects of MCT oil and coconut oil. Fashion and Textiles. 2023;10(1):10. DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00332-0. URL: https://link.springer.com/article/10.1186/s40691-023-00332-0 35. Sharifi N, Hamedeyazdan S, Shokri J, Monajjemzadeh F. Argan oil as a pretreatment of human hair before exposure to oxidative damage: attenuated total reflectance and protein loss studies. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022;21(10):5010-5017. PMID: 35226791. DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14885. 36. Lee SH, Ahn C. Effect of rinse-off hair conditioner containing argan oil or camellia oil on the recovery of hair damaged by bleaching. Fashion and Textiles. 2022;9:17. DOI: 10.1186/s40691-021-00282-5. 37. Gad HA, Roberts A, Hamzi SH, et al. Jojoba Oil: An Updated Comprehensive Review on Chemistry, Pharmaceutical Uses, and Toxicity. Polymers (Basel). 2021;13(11):1711. PMID: 34073772. PMCID: PMC8197201. DOI: 10.3390/polym13111711. 38. Gruber JV, Terpak N, Massard S, Schwartz A, Bojanowski K. Passive Enhancement of Retinol Skin Penetration by Jojoba Oil Measured Using the Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeation Assay (Skin-PAMPA): A Pilot Study. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2023;16:317-324. PMID: 36756221. PMCID: PMC9901458. DOI: 10.2147/CCID.S391667. 39. Mysore V, Arghya A. Hair Oils: Indigenous Knowledge Revisited. Int J Trichology. 2022;14(3):84-90. PMID: 35755964. PMCID: PMC9231528. DOI: 10.4103/ijt.ijt_189_20. 40. Sarkar R, Podder I, Gokhale N, Jagadeesan S, Garg VK. Use of vegetable oils in dermatology: an overview. Int J Dermatol. 2017;56(11):1080-1086. PMID: 28421610. DOI: 10.1111/ijd.13623. 41. Komane B, Vermaak I, Summers B, Viljoen A. Safety and efficacy of Sclerocarya birrea (A.Rich.) Hochst (Marula) oil: A clinical perspective. J Ethnopharmacol. 2015;176:327-335. PMID: 26528587. DOI: 10.1016/j.jep.2015.10.037. 42. Wertz PW, Downing DT. Integral lipids of mammalian hair. Comp Biochem Physiol B. 1989;92(4):759-761. PMID: 2721159. DOI: 10.1016/0305-0491(89)90264-2. (Earlier composition note: Wertz PW, Downing DT. Integral lipids of human hair. Lipids. 1988;23(9):878-881. DOI: 10.1007/BF02536208.) 43. Isbell TA, Mund MS, Carlson KD. Chemical and physical properties of meadowfoam seed oil. Ind Crops Prod. (Open-access review published by Hindawi 2020; DOI 10.1155/2020/8870170.) [Note: an earlier draft attributed the publisher as Wiley; corrected to Hindawi per verification.] 44. Lipp M, Anklam E. Review of cocoa butter and alternative fats for use in chocolate. Food Chem. 1998;62(1):73-97. 45. Akhter S, et al. Mangifera sylvatica (Wild Mango): A new cocoa butter substitute. Scientific Reports. 2016. PMCID: PMC4995435. [Note: an earlier draft cited the journal as "Pharmacognosy Journal" and species as M. indica; verification against PubMed confirmed it is actually published in Scientific Reports and concerns the species Mangifera sylvatica (wild mango), not the commonly cultivated M. indica. Substantive conclusion (mango butter composition is similar to shea/cocoa and behaves as an occlusive) is unaffected.] 46. Klinkajorn S, Sukhasem S. Production of mango seed butter for cosmetic use. Acta Horticulturae. 2021;1312:84. [Note: corrected author names per verification; earlier draft listed "P. Klinkajorn & K. Pansamjit" -- actual authors are "S. Klinkajorn & S. Sukhasem", year 2021 (not 2020).] 47. de Souza Neto AV, et al. Effect of an Emollient Emulsion Containing 15.0% of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride on the Urocanic Acid of the Stratum Corneum. Life (Basel). 2023. PMCID: PMC10143511. [Note: corrected journal name and title per verification; earlier draft cited journal as "PMC" with title "on skin barrier"; the actual journal is Life (Basel), and the full title concerns the urocanic-acid biomarker of the stratum corneum.] ================================================================================ C. STRENGTHENING INGREDIENTS (from chapter 03) ================================================================================ 48. Marsh JM, Cron S, Chen T, Talley A, Whitaker S, Jiang H, Xue K. Strengthening benefits of panthenol for hair: Mechanistic evidence from advanced spectroscopic techniques. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2026 Feb;48(1):121-127. PMID: 40905518. DOI: 10.1111/ics.70024. 49. Davis MG, Thomas JH, van de Velde S, Boissy Y, Dawson TL Jr, Iveson R, Sutton K. A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair. Br J Dermatol. 2011 Dec;165 Suppl 3:24-30. PMID: 22171682. DOI: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10633.x. 50. Choi YH, Shin JY, Kim J, Kang NG, Lee S. Niacinamide Down- Regulates the Expression of DKK-1 and Protects Cells from Oxidative Stress in Cultured Human Dermal Papilla Cells. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2021;14:1519-1528. PMID: 34703266. PMCID: PMC8536842. DOI: 10.2147/CCID.S334145. [CRITICAL CORRECTION: An earlier draft of the research cited this paper with wrong authors ("Choi YH, Kim D, Joo J, et al."), wrong journal ("Int J Mol Sci"), wrong title ("...Attenuates Cellular Senescence..."), wrong volume/issue (22(16):8814), and wrong DOI prefix. Verification against PMC8536842 confirmed the actual citation above. The substantive claim (niacinamide down-regulates DKK-1 in dermal papilla cells) is supported by the real paper.] 51. Malinauskyte E, Shrestha R, Cornwell PA, Gourion-Arsiquaud S, Hindley M. Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Feb;43(1):26-37. PMID: 32946595. PMCID: PMC7820954. DOI: 10.1111/ics.12663. 52. Fan J, et al. Performance and Mechanism of Hydrolyzed Keratin for Hair Photoaging Prevention. Molecules. 2025;30(5):1182. DOI: 10.3390/molecules30051182. [Note: corrected title per verification; earlier draft omitted "Photoaging Prevention" from the title, making it sound broader than it is.] 53. Wang S, Meng D, Wang S, Zhang Z, Yang R, Zhao W. Modification of wheat gluten for improvement of binding capacity with keratin in hair. R Soc Open Sci. 2018;5(2):171216. PMID: 29515840. PMCID: PMC5830729. DOI: 10.1098/rsos.171216. 54. Fernandes C, Medronho B, Alves L, Rasteiro MG. On Hair Care Physicochemistry: From Structure and Degradation to Novel Biobased Conditioning Agents. Polymers. 2023;15(3):608. PMID: 36771909. PMCID: PMC9921463. DOI: 10.3390/polym15030608. [CRITICAL CORRECTION: An earlier draft of the research cited this paper with a fabricated DOI (10.3390/cosmetics10020044) that actually points to an unrelated laser-hyperpigmentation article (Cannarozzo et al.). The PMC ID 9921463 belongs to a different Fernandes article in Polymers (DOI 10.3390/polym15030608, PMID 36771909), which is what this corrected citation now reflects. Direct verbatim quotes attributed to Fernandes 2023 in earlier drafts could not be located in the source abstract; they have been rephrased as paraphrases throughout the chapters. The substantive claim (the review covers hair structure, degradation, and novel biobased conditioning agents) is supported.] 55. Song SH, Park HS, Lim BT, Son SK. Biomimetics through bioconjugation of 16-methylheptadecanoic acid to damaged hair for hair barrier recovery. Sci Rep. 2024;14:27387. PMID: 39521885. PMCID: PMC11550837. DOI: 10.1038/s41598-024-78770-z. 56. Lai NH, Dang THN, Nguyen TT, Phan DTQ. Utilizing Lipid Bond Technology With Molecular Lipid Complex to Provide Lipid Treatment for Damaged Hair. Dermatol Res Pract. 2025;2025:5385312. PMID: 40823380. PMCID: PMC12352994. DOI: 10.1155/drp/5385312. (Industry bias: authored by Moonshot Biotech employees.) 57. Qu W, Guo X, Xu G, Zou S, Wu Y, Hu C, Chang K, Wang J. Improving the Mechanical Properties of Damaged Hair Using Low- Molecular Weight Hyaluronate. Molecules. 2022;27(22):7701. PMID: 36431803. PMCID: PMC9695591. DOI: 10.3390/molecules27227701. 58. Tham HP, Yip KY, Luxbacher T, McMullen RL, Dawson TL Jr. Electrokinetic analysis reveals common conditioner ingredient interactions with human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2026 Apr;48(2):379-393. PMID: 41126531. PMCID: PMC13068045. DOI: 10.1111/ics.70038. 59. Hossel P, Dieing R, Norenberg R, Pfau A, Sander R. Conditioning polymers in today's shampoo formulations -- efficacy, mechanism and test methods. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000 Feb;22(1):1-10. PMID: 18503458. DOI: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00003.x. 60. Patel DP, Swink SM, Castelo-Soccio L. A Review of the Use of Biotin for Hair Loss. Skin Appendage Disord. 2017 Aug;3(3):166-169. PMID: 28879195. PMCID: PMC5582478. DOI: 10.1159/000462981. 61. Mintz GH, Reinhart KM. Relationship between collagen hydrolysate molecular weight and peptide substantivity to hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1991;42:35-44. (Cited in CIR 2012 Safety Assessment of Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. No PMID/DOI located.) 62. Oshimura E, et al. Hair and amino acids: The Interactions and the effects. Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine. 2007;122(8). (Secondary, industry-adjacent. No PMID/DOI located.) 63. Jadach B, Mielcarek Z, Osmalek T. Use of Collagen in Cosmetic Products. Current Issues in Molecular Biology. 2024;46(3):2043- 2070. DOI: 10.3390/cimb46030132. [CRITICAL CORRECTION: An earlier draft of the research cited this paper with a fabricated DOI (10.3390/cosmetics11030132, which returns 404 on doi.org and "Resource not found" on Crossref). The actual DOI is 10.3390/cimb46030132, journal is Current Issues in Molecular Biology (not Cosmetics), vol 46(3) (not 11(3)), pages 2043-2070 (not 132). The substantive claim (native collagen MW is approximately 300 kDa, too large to penetrate the hair shaft) is supported.] ================================================================================ D. PRODUCT FORMATS AND APPLICATION (from chapters 04, 05) ================================================================================ 64. Apothecary87. Ingredients Decoded: What's Actually in Beard Oil? Industry formulation guide, 2025. URL: https://www.apothecary87.co.uk/blogs/grooming/natural-ingredients-decoded-what-s-actually-in-beard-oil (Convention only; not evidence.) 65. SCC Media Library, J Cosmet Sci Vol 52 No 3 p 28. Secondary ion mass spectrometric investigation of penetration of coconut and mineral oils into human hair fibers: Relevance to hair damage. URL: https://library.scconline.org/v052n03/28. (Referenced text; supports Rele 2003 / Ruetsch 2001 findings.) 66. Formula Botanica. How to Work with Natural Cosmetic Waxes. Industry formulation guide. URL: https://formulabotanica.com/natural-cosmetic-waxes (Convention only.) 67. MakingCosmetics. Waxes Used in Cosmetics. Industry whitepaper. URL: https://www.makingcosmetics.com/.../06-whitepaper-waxes.pdf (Industry reference.) 68. Cherian MS, et al. Safety Assessment of Beeswax, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, and other cosmetic waxes. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), 2025. URL: https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/RR_Waxes.pdf 69. Lima RRC, Bandeira ACC, Martins TS, Otubo L, Oliveira CLP. Thermal Induced Changes in Cuticle and Cortex to Chemically Treated Hair. Biopolymers. 2026;117(1):e70071. PMID: 41388847. PMCID: PMC12701549. DOI: 10.1002/bip.70071. 70. Yun J, et al. Evaluation of Human Hair Absorption and Retention via 3D Raman Spectroscopy. 2025. PMCID: PMC12513242. (Title and methodology as cited; abstract not fully retrieved.) ================================================================================ E. TEXTBOOKS AND SECONDARY REFERENCES ================================================================================ 71. Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th ed. Springer; 2012. (Standard textbook reference.) 72. Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI, eds. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. 4th ed. CRC Press. (Standard textbook.) 73. Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine. Cetyl Alcohol: A Multifunctional Addition to Formulator's Toolboxes. 2018. URL: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/literature-data/article/21837264/ ================================================================================ F. CITATIONS REMOVED AFTER VERIFICATION ================================================================================ (i) Kim H-R, Sung Y-W, Choi W-J. Effects of hair treatment with shea butter on bleached hair. J Convergence for Information Technology. 2021;11(3):212-219. DOI: 10.22156/CS4SMB.2021.11.03.212. [REMOVED: DOI does not resolve on Crossref; the citation could not be verified. The shea-butter hair evidence is now downgraded to "preliminary, awaits corroboration" in chapter 02.6.] (ii) PMID 33015832 (originally cited as evidence for panthenol increasing hair diameter in 02.10). [REMOVED: This PMID is actually a contact-dermatitis case report on calcium pantothenate (Pastor-Nieto 2021, Contact Dermatitis), NOT evidence for panthenol hair-shaft diameter effects. The panthenol diameter claim is now sourced from Marsh 2026 (PMID 40905518) and Davis 2011 (PMID 22171682) instead -- both verified primary sources.] ================================================================================ End of 07_references.txt ================================================================================